Heirloom apples

guido · Site Admin Joined: Oct 18, 2004 Posts: 381 Location: Italy

What they are: Apples that were cultivated in America since before 1900. One of the oldest, the Roxbury Russet, was discovered in a Roxbury orchard in 1645 and distinguished itself as a premier cider-making apple. Most of the thousands of varieties cultivated since early settlers began keeping orchards were used for making hard cider. In the early 20th century, Prohibition's influence decreased hard cider's popularity, and apples began to be offered at the table.

Where to find them: This is peak season; apples are at orchards, farm stands, and farmers' markets. Some orchards cultivate more than 50 varieties that date back about 200 years. Doris Mills, who runs Noquochoke Orchards with her brother, sells apples from trees her grandfather planted in the family's Westport orchard at the turn of the last century. Mills, 74, visits seven farmers' markets weekly, including Brookline and City Hall, where she says that ''people love the heirlooms."

How to use them: Different apples suit different purposes. Pie bakers love Northern Spies. Mills says Ben Davis and Stark apples are ''great cookers." Sweet-tart and juicy Red Winesaps and Jonathans are great for slicing into salads. Mills prefers a variety called 20-Ounce because ''it's large and you don't have to peel as many."

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